The original helmet I purchased was nothing like the one I am now using. It was heavy, wasn’t accurate and was kind of sad really.

I purchased another helmet from MinuteFett which looks amazing and came with film-era damage. Here is the raw cast received and some progress as I worked on it:

And here is the checklist for 501st certification; comments in italics;

✅ The dome and lower cheeks are a medium/dark olive green color. — Finding this color in a rattle can is DIFFICULT. I went through about 10 different cans until I found the perfect one which is Camouflage green. It most closely matches the sage color of the helmet.

✅ The mandibles and head band are a dark red/burgundy color.

✅ The upper cheeks are a dark blue in color. I used Mountain Black “Midnight Blue” (cue Lou Gramm/Melissa Manchester)

✅ In the front of the helmet, above the band, are two “turn signal” details, the painted to match film era visual references. Orange and blue, with damage.

✅ Helmet has a dark colored, full one piece “T” visor. – Compliments of Boba Maker. It first perfect. Here is a look at the inside of the helmet and the mounts used:

The bottom mounts are pieces of aluminum bar from the toe spikes with small 5mm screws holding it in. The aluminum bars are attached with epoxy. On the temples are binding posts with nylon washers. Another (painted black) is in the center but covered by a pad. The “nose” mounts were removed because they hurt. I also found that having a chin strap helps keep the helmet from tilting due to all of the stuff in it (battery pack, fan, servo, magnetic sensor for servo, sound effect for hermetic seal hiss).

✅ Facial features should not be visible through the visor.

✅ Helmet has 18 “kill stripes” on left side of helmet, painted a deep reddish orange. Another challenge that had to be done manually. See this post about it.

✅ The helmet back panels are primarily a medium green in color, with the appearance of heavy scraping, exposing multiple layers. — Base primer, silver, medium grey, 2 different greens and the medium green on back with sage green on the dome.

✅ There is a keyhole slot area on the back of helmet that is silver grey.

✅ The keyhole slots in the rear of helmet have the visible appearance of a circuit board, identical to or closely resembling the correct MQ-1 calculator piece (or cast replica) mounted behind the openings. This detail may be cast into the helmet or mounted behind cut out openings in the slots. — Casio MQ-1s are notoriously difficult to find. Those on eBay go for $130 because the owners know Fettheads want them. I used the circuit board from the desktop calculator/adding machine which closely resembles the MQ-1. Notice the speaker in the upper right which plays the hermetic seal sound effect.

✅ The bottom two keyhole slots each have a small weathered red cylinder type knob that is identical to or closely resembling the correct MicroMega dental drills, visibly protruding. — Furniture dowels from Ace Hardware.

✅ The dome features a prominent dent in the left-front portion that is appears to expose a metallic base as well as other distinct damage and weathering, unique to ROTJ that closely matches film era visual references.

✅ Helmet has a rangefinder assembly on the right side. — Not to be confused with the rangefinder assembly on the LEFT side as seen in TWO scenes in Jabba’s palace in ROTJ. No idea why Lucas flipped the video. I am guessing it is because Jeremy (or whomever was in the costume) drew their gun wrong or something. I still can’t believe they didn’t correct it in the Special Editions.

✅ The rangefinder stalk is weathered metallic in appearance and the topper is black with a translucent lower piece and the appearance of 2 red “lights” on the top. — The red lights are attached to a motion sensor that activates them when the rangefinder is in the down position. The “back” light also flashes.

✅ Both ears are metallic silver as the base color, and are heavily weathered. — Aluminum, compliments of MinuteFett

✅ The right cheek has a weathered silver “Diagnostic Port” that is a small circular detail piece with 3 holes, identical to or closely resembling the correct 3-hole Borden connector installed or molded into the helmet. — Actual metallic piece from MinuteFett.

✅ The helmet is weathered and closely matches the film era visual references, both in colors and weathering patterns. — I followed the images on the CRL to the exact scrapes and scratches.

The following items are for second-level consideration:

✅ Accurate ROTJ film era physical damage is etched into the helmet. — The great thing about ordering from MinuteFett — his helmets are amazingly accurate.

✅ The helmet has a satin finish. — Compliments of satin clear coat

✅ T-Visor is smoke gray. — You can see more out of it than you think but less than what is ideal.

Circuit board is from an actual Casio MQ-1 calculator or direct replica.

The bottom two keyhole slots have the correct MicroMega dental drills or direct replicas.

✅ Rangefinder stalk is made of metal.

Right ear has accurate Honeywell-style Micro Switch which can be functional or non-functional.

🤔 RF Topper lights are fully tucked into the topper housing. –I have two different lights for the rangefinder. One is always on and has a white light. It tucks into the housing better because the batteries are inside the helmet with wires running up the inside of the stalk. The wiring is still in there but I am using the second set of lights which has the motion sensor. It doesn’t tuck in as nice but it still matches the photos from the CRL.

---

---

So that’s it for the helmet! Look for more posts about the following:

• Jumpsuit
• Flak vest
• Chest armor
• Jetpack
• Gauntlets (and hoses)
• Ammo and girth belt
• Jetpack harness
• Side pouches
• Voice changer
• Codpiece/kidney armor and “Boba thong”
• Knee armor
• Shin tools
• Spats & Boots